THE “LONG-LASTING” EFFECT IS CERTAINLY ONE OF THE MOST WIDELY USED CLAIMS IN THE WORLD OF COLOURED COSMETICS. THE CLAIM RESPONDS TO THE NEED TO LOOK IMPECCABLE IN A WORLD THAT RUNS FASTER AND FASTER, IS TRANSVERSAL TO MANY CATEGORIES OF COSMETIC PRODUCTS BUT IS NO LONGER LIMITED TO THE JUDGEMENT ON THE LASTING OF COLOUR, AS EXPLAINED IN THE ARTICLE WRITTEN BY OUR COLLEAGUE VINCENZO NOBILE, R&D MANAGER AT COMPLIFE.
LET’S TRY TO CLARIFY THE EVALUATION FOR THIS TYPE OF PRODUCTS.
“The evaluation of the lasting is by nature visual and not colorimetric.
The visual evaluation, in fact, takes into account the whole long-lasting effect of the product considering it in its entirety and not only judging the colour as this concept is now obsolete.”
In addition to this theoretical aspect, linked to the design of the study and the interpretation of the claim, our research and development team has detected several technical obstacles to colorimetric evaluation:
- FADING IS NOT A LINEAR MEASURE
To be noticed at a distance of “x hours” from the first application is not the fading but the aesthetic aspect of the application, the lasting effect in terms of adequate coverage (e.g. homogeneity of the application, imperfections, etc.). In everyday life the consumer will not complain in any case a loss of colour but rather complain an unsatisfactory application.
- THE NON-HOMOGENEOUS PRODUCT IS DIFFICULT TO MEASURE
In many cases, at a distance of “x hours” the product is present in a non-homogeneous way on the skin without necessarily having an attenuation of the intensity of the colour. In this case we are faced with the impossibility of measuring correctly: the technician questions are “Do I measure where I see the product or where I do not see the product? Or do I measure in the middle?”
- DOES NOT TAKE INTO ACCOUNT THE INTERACTION OF THE PRODUCT WITH THE SKIN
Strongly penalizes tone-on-tone products that at a distance of “x hours” blend with the complexion.
- INTRODUCES A RANDOM THRESHOLD
It uses a threshold of 50% to define the tightness of the product, borrowing this threshold from the assessment of the water resistance of solar products. This threshold is really very high, even more so given the non-linear characteristics of the colour.
- RISK OF ERROR FOR PRODUCTS APPLIED TO SMALL AREAS
For lip products or eyeshadows, the measuring area is so small that the contact with the instrument that removes part of the product, would inevitably affect the result.
The conclusion of our experts is that colour measurement with colorimetric technique is an academic evaluation that does not have a solid rationale.
For this reason, very often we advise our customers to use the evaluation by expert judges that, as it is performed (blind and independent), is configured as an instrumental analysis considering the robustness of the data.
COMPLIFE BELIEVES IN THE CUSTOMIZATION OF EACH PROJECT AND IN THE IMPORTANCE OF SHARING THE COMPANY KNOW-HOW AT THE SERVICE OF OUR CUSTOMERS’ PROJECTS, TO ENSURE COMPLETE SUPPORT AND OUR BEST ADVICE.
COMPLIFE. COMMITTED TO SCIENCE, COMMITTED TO YOU.
